In 1992 I demonstrated at a particularly exciting conference in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. The energy and collaborative spirit of the presenters and attendees motivated me to try something new. Turning had played a major role in my work since the mid-1970s, but I was mainly making furniture and I used turned pieces as elements in those designs. Now I wanted to turn a simple object out of one piece of wood, and I wanted it to be something that I could demonstrate in an hour and a half, the typical length of a rotation at a turning conference.
I had an idea that I could turn a piece of wood on two sets of centers and make it look bent. I took a stab at it and accomplished what I set out to do (1). The next step was to apply this technique to a functional object. A candlestick came to mind. In order for the candlestick to be stable, the base needed to be the full size of the wood. I did not want it to appear heavy, so I wanted several sections of it to be narrow. For aesthetic reasons, I thought that one area other than the base should be the full diameter. Since the first section is turned on an extreme axis, the only possibility for this large area is mid-height, where the axis passes through the center of the stock. Geometry determines that location.
Amazingly, I was happy with the results of the first try. And while I have made numerous variations of this form, the basic shape has remained pretty much unchanged over the years. I’ve tried incorporating three and sometimes more axes, thinking that maybe I could take it a step further, but came to the conclusion that keeping it simple produces a more effective visual statement.

SIZE
I use kiln-dried wood that I buy in plank form. Many woodturners use “road kill” or other green wood, but since I come from a furniture background, I always want to have the option of making parts that fit together. Dry wood is essential for that purpose. Sometimes it’s a challenge, but it is possible to find wood that is 12/4 and 16/4 (3" and 4", respectively). I’ve used both of these sizes and think that 3" isn’t quite large enough and 4" is too much. The ideal thickness is 3-1/2" square by about 12" high. If I use 3" stock, I lower the finished height to 10". Using 4" allows greater height, but the final object is just too big.
When I’m trying something new, I always test the idea in a smaller scale and in a soft and inexpensive wood like poplar. It takes less time than making the full-sized piece and you can make mistakes and throw it away without getting too upset. Mistakes are very important. It’s not just a cliché; it really is how you learn. I also strongly recommend laying out at least two identical pieces, drawing the centers on both blocks, saving one to record the layout and turning the second one. Sometimes I turn a third piece halfway, to remind myself of the process. For years, I made a drawing for this purpose, but often what seemed clear on paper at the time was indecipherable six months later, and I had to figure out the whole layout again to achieve the same result. The three-dimensional block is a clearer way of taking notes on a three-dimensional form.

LAYOUT
This multi-axis candlestick is an example of using two non-parallel axes in one plane. In the side view, you see elements that are angled to one another, and from the front view, the candlestick is bilaterally symmetrical, sort of like looking at a person from the front or back, symmetrical only from those views. I’ve attempted using multiple planes, but it gets complicated quickly. It’s harder to envision the results, so the turning can end up too thin and weak. And in any case there’s enough challenge working in one plane.
The layout of the design is straightforward. I draw a centerline on the top and bottom of the wood blank, defining a plane. The first centers are placed as far as possible toward the opposite edges of the wood on that centerline. A safe distance is about 3/8" from the outer edge. This allows the cup centers to be positioned fully on the wood. It is possible to be a little more extreme, but at the risk of having the wood fly off the lathe. The bottom center of the second set of centers is on true center. The top center is 7/8" in from the outer edge on the opposite side from the first center at the top. Next, I lay out a 7/8" diameter hole for the candle, leaving 7/16" from the edge of the hole to the edge of the wood.